Friday, June 3, 2016

Oil Change and new Maint/Parts log.

I've started a spreadsheet to log my maintenance checks/changes and my parts additions.  Right now it's a bit lean (one oil change), but none the less yours to view if you want.


2016 CRF1000 Maint/Parts log.

The oil change.

I used the owners manual which gives a brief overview of how to check and change the oil.  It says to remove the skid plate but doesn't show how.  Its easy to figure out but again, just an overview.  I'll give a write up and take some pics later to use for reference.

1.Tools.

5mm Allen head socket or wrench
12mm socket
Short extension
Socket wrench
Oil pan
Funnel
Oil.  4.4qt DCT, 4.3qt Manual (I use Honda GN4 10W-30 Sj)
Oil filter (15410-MFJD01)
(2) Sealing washer for 12mm drain bolts.

2. Skid plate removal.

Using the 5mm Allen (or under seat Allen) remove the two bolts at the front of the plate facing the front wheel.  The plate will pivot a little and you can now see that there is one rear bolt near the left foot peg and a peg on the frame facing inward which the right rear of the plate slides on to.  Remove the foot peg side bolt and slide the plate off the peg.







3. Drain oil.

Remove two 12mm bolts from the crank case.  Order of removal does not matter.  You will need a bigger oil pan to catch both streams at once so if using a smaller pan only drain one at a time.  If you do not have a center stand I suggest holding the bike in a straight up position to drain the most amount of oil out of the case.  Once oil is drained from the case replace the sealing washers on the bolts and tighten the 12mm bolts (22 lbs/ft) and move the oil pan under the filter.  Remove the filter and let the oil drain, holding the bike straight up again for a little bit.




4. Replace filter.

Lubricate the oil filter gasket by using some fresh oil on the tip of your finger.  Honda suggests torquing to 19 lbs/ft but I'm assuming most won't have the special cap tool for the filter so spin on the filter and tighten until it is very snug.



5. Fill with oil.

Remove the oil fill plug and fit funnel into fill hole.  For the DCT you will fill 4.4qt and for the Manual you will fill 4.3qt.  The qt size bottle of the Honda oil has delineations of 100mL.  1 qt is 946 mL so you can roughly use the mL numbers to get a closer idea of what .4 and .3 of a qt is.  0.4 qt will be roughly 375mL and 0.3 qt will be roughly 285mL, round those off as you see fit.  Once you've added the correct amount of oil replace the fill plug.





6. Check the oil level.

While on the side stand star the bike and let it idle for 3-5m.  Switch off the engine and wait 2-3 minutes.  Move the bike into an upright position (center stand, or second person needed).  Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean with a lint free rag.  Insert the dipstick until it seats but don't screw it in.  Check that the oil level is between the upper and lower level marks.  Replace dipstick and screw it back in tightly.



Go for a ride! (or see #7 for DCT users)

Side note:  This little bushing might end up on the floor and you might look for it's home for a few minutes before realizing where it goes. :)



7. Replace DCT clutch filter.

Remove the clutch filter cover noted below.  This will require a 5mm Allen, or the under-seat Allen.  There are two bolts to remove.  



Once the bolts are removed you will see a spring seated in the filter.  Pull out the spring and set aside for the new filter.


Using a pick or small flat head screw driver remove the filter.  It should take very little effort to get the filter out, you don't need to wedge anything in to pry it out.  Alternatively perhaps a needle nose pliers used in the spring hole and opened up might also work.






Push in the new filter. Replace the O-ring on the cover (I don't have a part number for that one, they just threw it in the box) and screw down the bolts to 9 ft/lbs.

Now go for a ride!



3 comments:

  1. It seems odd to me that you would fill the engine with the new oil before changing the DCT clutch oil filter. I will be changing my oil today in my AT DCT and always thought the new oil addition would be the final step.

    ReplyDelete
  2. When I 1st got into sales (early 20's) My boss always said: Think Viking!-- Rape! Pillage! Burn! -- you get the order wrong and you go home broke and horny! ----- Getting the order right is crucial!!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Nice write-up with pictures!

    The owner's manual recommends changing the DCT filter after removing the other oil filter and before filling up with fresh oil.

    Thanks also for the proper way to check the oil level. The dealer mechanic told me to screw in the dip-stick all the way to check the level. Just goes to show, reading the manual is always preferable to word-of-mouth.

    ReplyDelete